A life in flux. Soon to be immigrant to Japan. Recently migrated this blog from another platform after many years of neglect (about March 6, 2017). Sorry for the styling and functionality potholes; I am working on cleaning things up and making it usable again.
A friend of mine is having a housewarming party today, although she actually moved in to her place about 4 months ago. Earlier this week I had planned to bring some little dish to the party, so this morning I went over to Whole Foods in the Roosevelt area and picked up some maroumi sheep’s milk cheese from Greece, as well as some spinach, onions, and shallots, and a few other things. I made a thick béchamel sauce mixed with eggs, nutmeg, allspice, and the maroumi cheese, sort of like the topping you’d expect on moussaka. I lightly caramelized the onions and shallots, then briefly sautéed the spinach. I also made a simple yeast dough, fairly moist but with relatively low yeast content.
After that I put the spinach filling and the cooked béchamel sauce in low containers to cool in the refrigerator for a few hours.
I wanted to go to the pottery lab to do a little bit of glazing of some work from last quarter. As usual with things pottery, I didn’t quite finish everything I had hoped by the time I needed to leave. I set a couple of things aside and went back home to finish cooking…
Basically I just rolled out a dozen or so small discs of dough and filled them with a little bit of the spinach-onion mixture mixed with some egg, topped with the béchamel sauce, and I closed them up sort of like Chinese buns. I baked them on a stone in my oven until they were brown and smelled nice, and packed them up for the party.
Attending a party as the owner of a small business is a different experience than attending a party as an “engineer” at a tremendously large software company. Meeting someone at a party has, up until now, been a pleasant diversion, a mild form of entertainment. But as a small business owner, every new face is an opportunity… people with job descriptions or educations or backgrounds that were merely interesting in my old life suddenly seem like potential partners, customers, people I can learn something from, or people who can introduce me to someone that might be useful for developing my business. It’s also kind of an opportunity to refine the story of my work. Hopefully I avoided sounding like too much of a salesperson… anyway, my spinach and béchamel buns disappeared, and I met some interesting people, and I don’t think I annoyed anyone too much.
Everything seemed to move in slow
motion today, except my watch.
I got out of my hotel around 10:30,
about 30 minutes after the official checkout time. Today the plan was to go
meet some of Hiromi’s friends for a slightly premature hanami (cherry
blossom viewing) in a park at Nakayama (Yokohama). I think we arrived about an
hour and a half after our intended time, and we started preparing sandwiches to
take with us to the park.
My contribution was roasting some
red peppers and eggplant, then making roasted pepper, cheese and lettuce
sandwiches, and some sandwiches made with briefly marinated eggplant and
cheese. We arrived at the park around 2pm and snacked on various things, drank
some aged 1988 Japanese sake (18% alcohol, caramel-like color, brandy-like flavor).
Some drank “off time” beer, a recently introduced brand which has had its
alcohol reduced by 40% compared to typical Japanese beer, or “happo-shu” which
is a cheap beer-like drink produced in such a way that it once evaded various
The cherry blossoms in this park
were probably at about 30% of their peak, but the weather was pleasant, and, as
I experienced, the flowers are only an incidental aspect of the hanami
After a couple of hours we cleaned
up, and I gave a piggy-back ride to Sanae’s little girl Kyouka on the walk back
to their home. We moved rather slowly, but Hiromi did some research to find
hotel accommodations for tonight and tomorrow night; I’m going to Mashiko on a
buying trip tomorrow and planned to stay overnight either in Utsunomiya or
Mashiko. I also needed something for Sunday night close to Shimbashi or
Toranomon, so that complicated things too. I should have figured all this stuff
out on my own, but I really appreciate receiving help.
Actually we had planned to head off
to Utsunomiya by car around 6 pm today, but we didn’t even get to the car until
10pm, so it’s going to be a long night, especially for Hiromi, who’s driving.
After exchanging a dozen or so email messages with my shipping vendor, a company that I’m meeting with on Monday, and a Taiwanese tea company, and a few others, I was able to contact a friend in San Francisco via MSN Messenger who may help me with sales and logistics a little bit. We talked a little bit about the Hong Kong confection I’m interested in.
There’s nothing in Japan untouched by foreign influence. This is perhaps even more true of Yokohama, as I was reminded today during the times that I was not focused on work.
Around lunchtime I walked over to World Porters near the Akarenga area in Yokohama, and I ended up eating at a sort of Indian-fusion type place. One of the Indian managers of the place came over and greeted me in English and took my order after the hostess up front seated me… Either my Japanese seemed hopeless when the hostess greeted me or they have a very involved manager. The food was elegantly presented and tasted good enough, but not terribly special; I think it suffered a little from being produced with a sort of factory/corporate restaurant mentality.
Afterward, I finally got around to buying a business card holder. My temporary solution of using an envelope was a little embarrassing. The one I picked up was black and gray leather and, in the realm of Japanese department stores, sold for a reasonable price.
At “Cake Mania” I had a nice yuzu cheesecake with a green tea flavored bundt-shaped cake around the filling. It was even decorated with broken green tea leaves and a little gold leaf. I drank a “maccha float”, which was maccha tea with cream (or possibly ice cream) blended like a shake.
I had a little snack after going back to the hotel to do some more work. Hiromi was planning to meet me around 10pm tonight, so I didn’t actually leave the hotel until almost that time, and we met in Sakuragicho.
We walked around in search of a late dinner, but all of the corporate owned options near Sakuragicho were already past their last order time, if open at all. After a long walk in fairly cold winds, we ended up at a place near the Oosanbashi pier named “Jack’s Café”, which was still open at 10pm and seemed to have a few potentially vegetarian items.
Entering Jack’s Café is a completely surreal experience. The interior transports you to Chicago to some 1930s Bohemian old-school café, apparently run by a middle aged woman who bought a better stereo system and decorated with some dried flowers. Lounge-style jazz standards are playing at a comfortable volume. A few cheesecakes, puddings, and cakes are shown in a small rectangular display case near the entrance. The menu could be found in a place run by Seattle or Chicago hipsters: a vaguely Indian spicy potato dish, cold tofu dish with lots of strip cut nori and a soy-based dressing, a semi-Japanese spaghetti dish with various mushrooms and asparagus, and a tomato-based spaghetti dish similarly adorned. I worked around the unexpected pieces of bacon. Although we didn’t have anything to drink, the menu offers coffee with sambuca, a negroni cocktail, and other interesting concoctions.
After dinner I had a cold crepe served over whipped cream and adorned with ribbons of cassis sorbet. Hiromi had a pumpkin pudding with a caramelized sugar sauce, possibly with a hint of Japanese black sugar. The food was all surprisingly decent for a late night haunt, and reasonably priced. I doubt the evening could have ended on a more satisfying note.
Michiko and I had made arrangements
to speak with Takeshi-san again today to arrange for some product samples that
he had promised while slightly intoxicated. In the morning he was pleasant but
a little different in demeanor than the previous day, and so we weren’t sure
what kind of quantities would be acceptable to ask for.
Actually, he did get in touch with
a couple of his colleagues, one representative of the company that does the
actual manufacturing for the charcoal pellets for growing plants, and one from
the soap company. So he was attempting to be helpful, but we started to feel a
little uncomfortable with him for various reasons that are hard to articulate.
We spend the afternoon chasing down
the Japan office of the freight company that I had opened an account with in Seattle. They were raising all sorts of issues that I had been assured would not be a
problem by the Seattle office, and a sales representative came to meet us in
the afternoon in Ginza. He was worried because we have multiple suppliers for
ceramics all inexperienced in export, and none of them wanted the slight
complication of preparing export documentation. I got a quote for an
approximate quantity of ceramics that I expect to ship, and an agreement for
the carrier to act as the exporter of record for the relatively small initial
order. I was trying to avoid export agents for the ceramics products because
they always get a substantial percentage of the transaction for relatively
little work; in this case, I was tracking down the suppliers by myself, so they
would be doing little more than document preparation… in fact, just document
assembly. Anyway, I was relieved that something which sounded like it could
have become extremely complicated was resolved quickly and inexpensively.
Lunch was at an Indian set-meal
type place and was decent… fresh-tasting, pleasant, inexpensive.
I met Hiromi for dinner and we ate
close to her home at Torafuku, a well-funded three-unit restaurant in some
recently remodeled building near the station. The food was good enough that
very few people were smoking, even at 9pm. We had a fresh tofu dish with three “flavors”
of tofu including one with yuzu and one which was actually gomadofu
(sesame tofu). We had some freshly-skimmed yuba. We had yasai no sumibi-yaki,
charcoal grilled vegetables. We also had some takenoko (bamboo shoot)
rice. We drank tea and I had a glass of yuzu-infused sake (for me) and Hiromi
had a kabosu drink with sprite (kabosu is a citrus fruit which, like
lime, is typically used unripe) and presumably some Japanese shochu (a
neutral spirit). The meal was all very sappari… no flavors were very
strong, but the natural flavors of each of the ingredients were highlighted. I’ve
probably had more impressively sappari dishes, but overall it was fairly
Tomorrow I have little on my
calendar, so I’ll just take care of sending some email and doing a little
Sachi and I planned to meet briefly
after work today, so I checked out and left my baggage with the hotel. I went
to Osaka during the daytime, mostly wandering around Umeda without much of a
real objective, even as a tourist. A Korean import/export company
representative whom I had hoped to meet in Osaka still hasn’t responded to a
mail I sent last week, so I didn’t have much of a business agenda anyway.
I ended up eating at an Italian
place for lunch where they had a conspicuous sign in Japanese saying they could
cater to customers with allergies, which I took as a sign that my vegetarian
habit could be indulged. It turns out that the Japanese mushroom pizza that I
ordered doesn’t have anything non-vegetarian in it anyway, and the salad and
bread weren’t anything to worry about either. The food was simple and pleasant,
though basically unmemorable.
My favorite thing to do when in
shopping districts is observing the foods being hawked in department store
basements (depa-chika). This proved the most interesting part of the
day. I can’t say there were many differences from department stores anywhere
else in Japan, but one stand specialized entirely in “curry bread”, in this
case a slightly fancier, fresher version of a long-lived staple of Japanese
bakeries. The department store experience is somehow a little more welcoming
than in Tokyo… somehow the heavy Kansai accents and gravelly voices of the men
and warmer, less formal sound of the women hawking various wares makes the
energy of the place seem more sincere. Or maybe I’m imagining all of that.
Somewhere I stopped for a
maccha-white chocolate cake and maccha ole.
Unfortunately, my friend Sachi got
stuck with some overtime work today so our hopes to meet for an hour or so
before I ran off to the airport were dashed. After finding the cafe where she
suggested we could meet if she was able to escape, I searched for something
more substantial, and finally found an Indian/Pakistani restaurant near the
station which I hadn’t noticed in previous wandering. The place was completely
devoid of customers, but I had one of the nicest palak paneer (or saag paneer)
dishes I’ve yet tasted in Japan.
I arrived just about midnight at my
dodgy hotel in Yokohama. The room is incredibly small… I think there are never
more than 12 inches of space to put my feet. It’s noisy, my cell phone doesn’t
seem to stay connected longer than 45 seconds, so completing plans with a
friend I’m meeting tomorrow has become complicated… and I am incredibly sleepy
and now a little irritable, but I guess it’s just a place to sleep.
The lack of sleep caught up with me. I got out of bed around 5am again only to realize that the only motivation for that was to turn off the alarm clock on my cell phone, which was reprising yesterday’s schedule. I slept another 3 hours or so.
After that I exchanged several email messages with various companies, though I wasn’t able to read a few price sheets that I had asked for since I was unable to open PDF or Word attachments on the hotel business center computers. I guess I’ll look at them Tuesday night or Wednesday sometime.
My major accomplishment as a tourist today was walking through the rain up to Wakayama castle. The grounds for the castle are about 20 minutes from my hotel on foot, and it takes another 10 minutes or so to climb the hill. Inside the castle, the reconstructed interior features institutional tile flooring and various exhibits of historical relics. Most of the artifacts on display are the usual military attire, weaponry and old maps. Usually I look forward to seeing some pottery in such venues, but in this case, there wasn’t much to see; just some roof tiles and the like.
Sachi had previously planned to go to a piano concert which was, unfortunately, sold out, so I didn’t meet her until after I had a small meal at a barely occupied chain izakaya called Iroha, located near my hotel. At Iroha, I had a stone bowl bibimbap, some mochi-mochi-camembert-potato-age, edamame, and some yuzu-infused shochu.
Of course, Sachi was hungry after the concert, so I ended up joining her for a second meal at a more interesting place that she knows. We had some rice croquettes with various seasonings, and some salad-stuffed raw spring rolls with a sort of Caesar dressing, age-dashi-doufu, and a little dessert. The dessert is called Nostradamus, and we ordered it solely because of the name; we didn’t know what was in it until we ordered. It was basically a parfait composed of various ingredients that Japanese expect in parfaits, served with a sparkler and a little bowl of diffusing dry ice in water, intended for a fog effect.
We stayed past our welcome at the restaurant and Sachi dropped me off at my hotel, making arrangements to meet briefly tomorrow before I head to the airport.
Hiromi called me and we chatted a little bit about my trip and about our plans for the next few days.
Awakened by about four alarm clocks after a short night’s sleep, I found my way to Haneda airport. My confusion transferring at Shinagawa meant that I only had a minute or so to spare when trying to transfer to the express Keikyu line. I ended up eating far too much for breakfast at the airport, but I managed to sleep a bit on the airplane.
Of course, somehow my brain wasn’t working entirely correctly when I told my friend I’d be leaving at 7:30 and arriving at 9:30. It’s actually only an hour flight to Kansai airport from Haneda, and although I did know this, somehow I confused myself into thinking I was scheduled to arrive at 9:30. Anyway, when I arrived, I called my friend Sachi, who was surprised that I had arrived hour earlier than she expected. I apologized for being confused. She came at the originally planned time; I waited in an airport Starbucks.
Sachi had arranged to have a couple of her 50-something coworkers drive us to Nara in a big van. When stopping at a rest area, she said, “don’t you think they look like yakuza?” Actually their faces are very rough-looking and they speak with thick Kansai accents, and if you looked at them from across the room you would probably not imagine it was a good idea to pick a fight with them. But they are very gentle, pleasant folks.
This was the first time I’ve been to Nara, so I took various pictures of deer at Nara park, parts of the Daibutsu (big Buddha) temple.
This is a group whose priorities I can appreciate. At the rest stop, we ate tai-yaki (fish-shaped waffles with bean paste in the middle), and Sachi picked up a cake to share in the car. We arrived in Nara not terribly long thereafter, and, after walking around a bit, they started plotting lunch. We did manage to feed “kiza-senbe” to various deer at the park, then walk around the Daibutsu, before actually committing to lunch, which was at an udon/soba/donburi-focused place targeting tourists. Sachi even made a second order for herself after a craving for curry rice overcame her. Within minutes after lunch, we were already eating again; from a street vendor, Sachi bought four sticks of dango (rice dumplings) seasoned with a lightly sweetened soy sauce and divided the spoils. It wasn’t 5 minutes after that when she had us buying freshly-made senbe (crispy rice crackers) with various seasonings.
We visited the 5-storied pagoda nearby, and then headed back to the car. Sachi made a destination stop at a shop which apparently has some of the nicest Warabi-mochi (a sticky, soft Japanese sweet rolled in toasted soybean flour) around; her companions bought obscene numbers of boxes of them. I would have bought some myself but they only stay fresh for a couple of days and I won’t be back in Tokyo to share with others until late Tuesday night.
On four hours of sleep I tended to nod off in the car on the way to Wakayama, and I wasn’t the only one. Sachi was driving on this leg, but her colleagues fell asleep in the back seat soon after digging into the warabi-mochi. I was seriously drowsy; I fell asleep before even getting a chance to try them. Fortunately, I did get a chance to taste them when we arrived in Wakayama; Sachi and her colleagues stopped to give some to some Thai friends of theirs in town. When Sachi’s friend was curious about the contents of a plastic bag in one of the Thai women’s basket, she claimed to have “etchi no video” (dirty videos) and was going out on a date… This opened the door for him to make a dirty joke after the woman reluctantly tried the warabi mochi, as she commented that she doesn’t like to eat soft things. Apparently they already know each other pretty well, or this is just a regional variation on acceptable behavior, as I’ve rarely seen this kind of interaction between men and women I know in the Tokyo area.
The food didn’t stop. We ended up at a popular local family restaurant, a few notches above the Japanese version of Denny’s, less than an hour after this stop, and we had a private room to celebrate Sachi’s coworker’s birthday.
The vegetarian or almost-vegetarian items included some dengaku-nasu (grilled eggplant with a sweetened miso topping), tofu salad, daikon salad, inari-zushi, and some egg white tempura. They also ordered a few things for the pescevorous. We shared half a fancy strawberry birthday cake from a local French-style cake shop. I probably shouldn’t have eaten so much today, but there was always something there…
If Sachi eats like this everyday, it doesn’t show on her waistline. While not rail-thin, she’s reasonably slim. I suppose her secret is that she keeps on sharing a substantial person of whatever she’s eating with whoever else happens to be around.
When I came back to the hotel I had a complication due to unavailability of a usable internet connection in my room; when my friend called last week to ask if I can connect to the internet in the room, they said, oh, yes, you just plug in and you’ll be fine. Apparently that means you can disconnect the phone and dialup to your usual Japanese internet service providers; I’ve gotten spoiled by in-room broadband, and I don’t have access to the convenient Microsoft dialup system on my new company’s laptop. The hotel tried troubleshooting for an hour or so before we mutually realized this was a communication problem rather than a technical problem. I tried mimicking the settings on the lobby computer and taking advantage of the wireless network down there, but apparently nobody knows how to log in. I found the WEP key in the registry but was stumped by the PPPOE password. After a while, I gave up and did what I could do with Hotmail and the horrible web-based email interface that my provider for yuzutrade.com offers.
This morning I packed up my larger suitcase, which is now full of product samples and related pamphlets, in preparation for an early Sunday departure to Kansai airport. I think there’s a little bit of clothing somewhere in there as well. Actually I have little desire to carry this overweight suitcase with me, so I made arrangements to deposit it at the Yokohama area hotel where I’ll be staying on my return.
The hotel in Yokohama is near Bashamichi, where Hiromi and I wandered around last Saturday. It’s a little dodgy… although it’s a full service hotel, it’s at the low end of the scale; a sign at the front door advertises short-term rates for those who might need a room for a few hours in the afternoon. The lobby lounge is occupied entirely by Russian guests who must have discovered the place in a guidebook. My friend Hiromi found the place online, but it doesn’t offer the usual amenities, like a credit-card secured reservation over the telephone, so I also made advance payment on the room for next week while checking my baggage.
We had lunch at a little kissaten-style place nearby which has dozens of varieties of tea and a few interesting tea beverages, but we’re in a bit of a rush, so we order only a couple of simple dishes (a Japanese style dish called omu-raisu, which is an omelet with seasoned rice, in this case made with various mushrooms; a spaghetti arrabiata, described in Japanese as an “angry Italian” dish; soup and salad) and then we move on.
Afterward, we meet Hiromi’s friends, both named Sanae, and go shopping in preparation for nabe dinner party. Nabe is the kind of dish that is nearly always ignored by U.S. Japanese restaurants; it’s a very rustic, humble, communal one-pot meal that is for Japanese in winter what outdoor grilling is for Americans in the summer, except, perhaps, without the heroic grill-meister bravado.
In this case, we were having a miso-seasoned nabe filled with various mushrooms, tofu, a kind of translucent noodle, and greens, with a little bit of kiri-tampo (toasted mochi).
I contributed by making a hijiki (black, noodle-like seaweed) dish with renkon (lotus roots), carrots, and sora-mame (fava beans), and a little dessert of oboro-doufu (very soft, custardy tofu) with boiled sweetened azuki beans and a ginger syrup.
The Sanae whose home we were visiting has a 5-year old boy and an approximately 2-year-old girl. The girl was a bit of a fan of the renkon in the hijiki dish and said “daikon choudai” (please give me some daikon) to her mother a couple of times… she hasn’t quite learned the word renkon yet. Another one of Sanae’s friends also made use of the blanched renkon and carrots I had leftover by pan-frying them in a little butter with a sprinkling of salt, making an elegant and simple appetizer or drink accompaniment.
Everyone was fairly sleepy after dinner and I was one of three people who dozed off occasionally near the couch. I need every bit of rest I can get, as I only have time for about four hours of sleep tonight.
Today I didn’t feel very productive, but I did get my account with Yamato Transport established and I got a confirmation on an appointment with a soap company I’m very interested in buying from.
Other than that, I sent out a few inquiries and replied to a few other messages. My major accomplishment was taking care of a couple of loads of laundry and initiating some packing; tomorrow I need to move some of my belongings to a temporary storage place; lugging my larger suitcase, now full of product samples and literature, to Osaka for a few days starting Sunday, is not my idea of fun..
Lunch was leftover baguette from breakfast, with lettuce and some relatively cheap (for Japan) Brie. Actually I really wish I wasn’t closer to department stores than to a known grocery store, because for one thing department store foods start out more expensive, and they tend to offer more western foods.
I’m perfectly capable of cooking with Japanese ingredients, but collecting them at department stores is often far more expensive than I’d like. Of course, somehow, everything that I cook here tastes more Japanese than European or American, but I think that’s mostly a matter of scale. I decorate small plates of vegetables with a little cheese… or I cook one medium potato, one carrot, and half an onion, using whatever seasoning is convenient, and I serve it to two people as one of three simple dishes, rather than buying a mess of potatoes, a bunch of carrots, and a ton of onions and garlic and turning it into a huge mass of home fries or Bratkartoffel.
Dinner was, in fact, such a potato dish, plus a dish of seasoned soybeans, blanched greens and half an onion, and a sample of udon from the FoodEx show I have been refrigerating since last week. The udon were unusual because they are made with sato-imo (small taro-like roots) and yamaimo (a starchy tuber). The udon noodles are quite nice; the included tsuyu, or dipping sauce, is overly sweet, even though the packaging recommends using the tsuyu as is, undiluted. We switch to a bottled tsuyu that Hiromi bought last week, which was much less cloying.
The afternoon was fairly cold and windy, although out my window everything appeared sunny and pleasant. I went out for tea in the afternoon, walking as quickly as possible to escape the weather. Apparently someone else had the same idea... I noticed a woman who had fallen asleep in one of the comfortable chairs, oblivious to a half-consumed latte.
Tonight after dinner I had the surreal experience of watching on TV a Japanese reprisal of “Bewitched,” this time set in 2004 Japan, but with the same basic storyline. This episode is when the Japanese equivalent of Darren inevitably discovers that his daughter has magical powers, around the time that he brings his ad agency boss and some clients to his unbelievably large Japanese condo. It’s amusing to see this very sixties-style show re-enacted with 2004 Japanese fashion sensibilities, but fortunately, the mother-in-law with the funky hairstyle is dutifully preserved.
I spent most of the day writing
email messages to various companies, and responding to a couple of incoming
messages. I occasionally took short breaks to finish reading Jeffrey
Steingarten’s book, It must have been something I ate. I actually read
more than half of it on the airplane ride over to Japan, but I’ve only been
reading a chapter here and there since I hit the ground. I usually enjoy
reading about other foodies’ adventures and idiosyncrasies. Of course, I can’t
believe he wrote an article about espresso without visiting Vivace’s in Seattle; David Schomer’s obsession with the technical minutiae of the ideal espresso would
have been the perfect supplement to Steingarten’s haphazard experimental
The weather was a little less
pleasant today, so I didn’t really look forward to stepping out for lunch. I
ducked into a little “curry-ya-san” that is slightly more Indian than the usual
Japanese roux-thickened interpretations but still catering to mainstream
Japanese tastes. I had a dish of dal, some ambiguous vegetable curry
with potatoes and disintegrated greens, an egg, and pickles with a little rice
and nan. Everything was sort of the quality that you would expect from a
buffet in an Indian restaurant in the U.S., by which I mean edible and more
pleasant than the average fast food chain but not particularly special.
In the early evening I wandered
around and found a café in Lumine that was offering a mille feuille pastry
with strawberries and a custard cream, so I stopped there and had a 600 yen
serving of the cake and a 400 yen espresso.
My friend offered to make a
vegetarian version of nikujaga, which is normally a beef and potato stew
a la japonaise, for dinner tonight, so this is the first day I’m neither
cooking nor am I eating restaurant fare for dinner. With a limited kitchen, a
one-pot meal is a pretty good idea, and it’s a little cold today, so it was
Today I met with a representative
from a company that makes yuzu drink “marmalades” in Korea and we talked
for a couple of hours about products and selling strategies. Actually I can get
customized labels and even packaging, so that will be beneficial. Prices seemed
ok, but I don’t have much to compare against.
It turns out I can also get a
customized drink product created to my specifications, and if I can do that, I
could introduce a product very compatible with my company name and pretty
distinctive in the US market. I thought this was pretty cool. The turnaround
time could be pretty fast: one or two months.
This representative took me to a
Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki place opposite Starbucks in an area on the
west side of Shinjuku station, and we had a simple lunch followed by coffee. I
had appreciated our previous conversation at FoodEx but actually this
discussion made me more likely to work with his company, since they seem to
have more options for product development than I expected and pricing could be
I contacted Yamato Transport’s Seattle office by telephone and talked with them about their shipping logistics services
and pricing. They should be able to provide pretty simple support for my
ceramics shipments from Mashiko, so that made me happy. They can of course also
do shipments from Hong Kong, Taipei and Korea.
Today I also got responses from
almost all of the companies that I have been waiting on, including the
Taiwanese tea company and the soap company. So now I just need to meet with the
companies I can see while still in Japan, make a few more logistics
arrangements and I can go back well-armed with a product line and a lot of
samples for demonstration. I’ll also go back to Mashiko to make a few small
orders. I guess the next step is sales… That’s the scary part for me…
I tried to find a way to reach a
couple of companies I expect to be dealing with in the US but was reduced to using their online feedback forms. I don’t expect much to come out of
that, but I’ll have a better chance of getting to the buyers when I can go and
knock on their doors back home.
For dinner I went to La Manina, an
Italian restaurant on the top of Takashimaya in the area south of Shinjuku
station. It’s very corporate and large and dramatic, but has pretty decent
food, so I’ve been there on several business trips in Japan. I broke one of my own rules and we ordered some tomato-based appetizer in March… and
we had pizza with pesto Genovese and mozzarella, and nice gnocchi with a gorgonzola
sauce. After dinner I had a limoncello digestif and my friend ordered
flaming Sambuca anisette with a few coffee beans floating on top.
I had some return contact from some
of my favorite potential suppliers today, so that was gratifying. I also sent
some inquiries out to some freight and web hosting companies since I’ll need to
have some solution for transporting products and I need a better solution than
I have now for the web retail presence I’ll be establishing. I have one meeting
scheduled for tomorrow with a company that mostly deals in Korean beverage
products (yuzu tea, ginger tea, date tea and so on); the representative
is someone I encountered at FoodEx.
This weekend I want to go to Osaka and Wakayama, so today I finally bought plane tickets and hotel vouchers. I haven’t
dealt with making my own domestic travel reservations without the assistance of
Japanese friends before, so I realized how little I remember from the trip
reservation conversation drills I had in Japanese classes in 1995. I guess I
have to learn sometime…
In Machida, we were lucky enough to
get seats at Ume no Hana, a tofu restaurant at the top of the Lumine department
store there. They had told us there would be a 30 minute wait, but we were
offered seats before we could finish calling another restaurant to find out if
we had a prayer of getting in there.
The food was pretty nice… freshly
made yuba and tofunabe, various small nibbles, and all
the elegance you’d expect… nice clean, refreshing flavors, very fresh foods, nothing
overwhelming, nothing under-seasoned, beautiful presentation. They also made
vegetarian substitutions for me where possible (dashijiru and a single
piece of shrimp being minor exceptions). Restaurants that make substitutions
are somewhat unusual in Japan, unlike the hyper-accommodating US world which will sometimes over-accommodate to the point of disastrous culinary results.
So I was pretty happy when I got mostly what I asked for with good food
quality. Some of the drinks that they do there are interesting, though some are
a little sweet; we tried a few different things and shared tastes.
Tomorrow I need to call Yamato Transport
in Seattle and try to set up a meeting or two in Osaka so I feel like I’m
getting some business value out of that side trip.
I tried to sort through piles of
brochures and business cards today and I sent out a few follow-up inquiries to
some companies that I have the most interest in. I think I got far less done
than I should have, but it was at least an acceptable start. I have piles of
companies to contact in order to establish an initial relationship.
For dinner, I picked up some “u
no hana”, also known as “okara” and mixed with some onions, water,
oil, and an egg to prepare a kind of okara burger/croquette type thing
with some expensive brie and I also made a little salad with an improvised
Japanese-ish dressing. One of the things I probably should have figured out a
week ago is where the nearest grocery store is, as I keep on doing my vegetable
and grocery shopping at Odakyu and Keio department stores, which is far from
the most cost-effective solution to my dinner requirements.
Late at night, I realized a friend
of mine who stayed in Seattle was on MSN Messenger, so I invited her join
another friend of mine with whom I had already made plans. The three of us knew
each other in Seattle, and in spite of relative proximity, they haven’t seen
each other for about a year.
I got a bit of a late start today, even though I woke up at a reasonable hour.
Around 11am Hiromi drove us to Kamakura. After finding parking, we headed to a place that serves purple sweet potato soft ice cream. We ended up noshing at various streetside vendors… some over-salted senbei (rice crackers), and dorayaki with sweet potato paste in the middle (sort of a stuffed pancake).
Sometime around 3pm we stopped and had a sort of baked rice (kamameshi); mine was made with bamboo shoots. Normally the place we went to is a drinking spot, but we came for the food. It turns out to have pretty nice food. The regulars there all buy whole bottles of shochu (actually Korean soju), whiskey, or other spirits, and they keep the bottles on a shelf labeled, each bottle carefully labeled with the customer’s name.
We stopped at one temple toward the south end of Kamakura and took some photos, and saw some early cherry blossoms and other blooming trees. We also briefly visited one side of the temple leading from the station.
Since we did a lot of snacking and had a late lunch, we weren’t hungry at any normal dinner. Later in the evening we went to an izakaya for a late dinner in Nishi-Shinjuku. We ordered a bitter melon dish made with eggs and tofu, a pretty spicy tofu salad, some “fuki” tempura, and some fried nattou and yamaimo wrapped in nori, and a not very sappari mozuku. We both ordered pomegranate sours, and Hiromi ordered a umeboshi sour and I had a lime one. The pomegranate sour was nice. I’d definitely repeat the nattou dish… it seems like a great dish to confound people with at parties.
I suppose I could say I took the day off today. Hiromi and I went to a crepe shop in Omote-sando which is famous for its soba (buckwheat) crepes. I ate most of a carrot soup, and I ordered a buckwheat crepe with fresh fava beans, various vegetables, an egg, and a relatively young gruyere. She ordered one with an aged soft chevre topped with mixed greens and walnuts. For dessert, we ordered a buckwheat crepe with rhubarb-orange jam. We also ordered coffee. She had a “Bretagne Irish Coffee”, an espresso drink served with some caramel liqueur and a little cream. I had espresso with calvados.
Afterward, we headed off to Yokohama and wandered around the Daisambashi (大桟橋) pier, which is sort of a boardwalk jutting out into the bay. It’s an international port, but also doubles as a place for parents to bring their small children to play, and functions as a date spot for an uncountable number of couples. On the way there from the station, we see a few quirky little restaurants, the storefront of a vacationing reflexologist, and a couple of stores that sell hemp products or various other things that might appeal to twenty-somethings.
Basha-michi road, nearby, features a red brick building called Akarenga (which, not coincidentally, means "red brick building", if I am not mistaken) that is filled with various shops and chain stores, and is so shopping-mall-like inside that I would probably see it as a destination of last resort if I were back home, but it’s kind of interesting to see how stuff is being sold (and bought) here. Some of the shops are hipper than the usual shopping-mall fare. It kind of strikes me as similar to University Village in Seattle.
We stopped at a department store for some grocery items for dinner. I picked up some mushrooms which are similar to cauliflower-mushrooms, a little bunch of spinach, some already-grilled-tofu, and some things for breakfast. For dinner I cooked the remaining bit of penne with a sauce of butter, garlic, pine nuts, the grilled tofu, spinach, the mushrooms, and some of the tsuyu from yesterday’s noodles, then topped with some pecorino romano. The mushrooms turned out to be a little fragile and shouldn’t have been cooked more than a few seconds. The sauce was pleasant enough, but as I’ve come to expect from the pans I have in my rental kitchen, I couldn’t heat it through again in the uneven fry pan quickly enough to avoid slightly overcooking the pasta.
I decided after all to go back to the Hoteres show, which turns out to have been a good idea. I found a lot of suppliers of ceramics mostly focusing on restaurant clients, one of which can also serve as an export agent for products from a potter I like in Takayama. Beyond that, I found the company behind an extra nifty cedar soap line, which is the same product that my friend Hiromi told me she uses religiously for her face. I also found another producer of a similar product, and a company that markets private label soaps to spas and hot springs and hotels in Japan, including a yuzu soap, a green tea soap that unlike Elizabeth Arden’s hyped product actually smells like green tea, and several “massage soaps” which include some kind of exfoliating ingredient.
In the “interesting kitchen equipment” category, the coolest thing I saw was a fryer which is promoted as a “clean fryer.” In a floor demonstration, one of the promoters asked an audience member to pour a glass of water directly into the hot oil, which was frying some tonkatsu or croquettes or something similar, with her hand directly above the oil. When she poured the water in, it simply disappeared; this was followed with someone tossing in an ice cube. The water, according to the demonstrator, had simply moved to the bottom of the fryer.
Another interesting machine was a countertop device that produces nigiri-sushi shaped rice in precise portions. In a similar vein, there was an automatic gyouza stuffer for countertop use. There were a couple of interesting conveyer-belt products which looked surprisingly elegant; two of them didn’t even have obviously moving belts.
I talked to one small company that manufactures oshibori wetting, disinfecting and warming countertop machines. Oshibori are wet napkins used in Japan usually instead of paper napkins, and are kind of an alternative to running off to a washroom to clean one’s hands before a meal. After the president told me everything he thought I could understand, he introduced me to his secretary, who is also his daughter. She used to study in New Zealand and had a kind of New Zealand Japanese accent. Apparently they are trying to sell a version of this in Hawaii later this year, and I suggested if they have a 110 volt version, it’s worth exploring the West Coast of the US in general, and to please let me know when it’s going to be released.
During these four days, it’s been kind of amusing how many people comment on my company name (Yuzu Trading Co. LLC). It seems to instantly establish some rapport, since it’s obvious to them I’m influenced by Japan; referring to Yuzu in my company name strikes some folks as surprising, leading them to think of me as not your usual run-of-the-mill gaijin.
I left the show around 3pm and came back to my apartment. I managed to sort through most of the papers I’ve accumulated over the last few days, organized by their relative importance to me (products I’m very interested in, products I was attracted to, companies that might be good sources if someone comes to me looking for something in particular, and companies which I don’t think I have much likelihood of being useful for me). I still have to sort through at least several dozen business cards I’ve received as well.
Tonight I cooked some of the yuzu-flavored udon I picked up last weekend in Nasu-Shiobara. I made a couple of simple side dishes… I have some leftover nanohana (canola greens or rapeseed greens), garlic stems, and one eringi from a few days ago. So I just blanched the nanohana in lightly salted water and served it with a drizzling of a white tamari sample I got from FoodEx. I also sauteed the garlic stems and browned the eringi, seasoned with some salt and the white tamari, then topped with some toasted pine nuts and pecorino romano cheese. The yuzu udon I just boiled and served cool with some store-bought noodle dipping sauce. The yuzu flavor isn’t very strong, but is at least noticeable and pleasant.
I had a pretty interesting conversation with a Sri Lankan tea company director… They have a pretty decent upscale tea that they mostly sell in England, and they aren’t very happy with their U.S. distributor, which has started to focus on its own branded tea. They sell single-estate teas
Anyway, he’s interested in doing a line of “healthy” teas and could source organic single-estate products, and says he could contribute some kind of marketing effort for this line; some kind of high-profile tasting event, for example, which they have done in London. They’re also creating a sort of prefab tea bar concept, which is a British-style presentation, but kind of interesting. I could actually start with relatively small shipments with them, which may be compelling; they also have a reasonably interesting story (163 year old company, bought back from the English by a Sri Lankan family, and their tea line is all single-estate, they’ve got a standing deal with the Queen of England, etc.) It’s not necessarily in the “pacific lifestyles” category, but with an organic product line I think I could be happy.
Beyond that, I noticed a couple of gems that I had previously overlooked in the Japanese food sections. I was kind of frustrated that I hadn’t seen many products from Japan that I thought were must-haves… I still don’t know that I’ve found a must-have item, but I did discover a nice natural aromatic vinegar line and some interesting grain-based tea beverage products, including an azuki bean tea similar to mugicha.
In the afternoon I went to another trade show at Tokyo Big Site in Odaiba, the big artificial island in Tokyo Bay. That show was mostly food equipment and furnishings for hotel, hospital, and restaurant businesses. I think I don’t really understand food equipment well enough to operate as an importer for that kind of thing, but I did see some cool stuff… there was a product that takes a small block of ice and turns it into large spherical, soccer-ball-shaped, or other novelty shaped large ice “cubes”. Another product in the same vein makes ice bowls for serving food, and produces the sort of ice you’d expect to serve oysters atop. Beyond that, I spent a while talking to a guy whose company produces a product for making fresh oborodoufu (custard-texture) tofu at the dinner table, for home or restaurant use. The device could be used for other recipes as well, but they have a companion product which is soy milk mixed with nigari and some other ingredients, and has a fairly long room-temperature shelf-life. I think it could sell to certain Japanese restaurants and maybe to Asian shops in the west coast; the tofu it produces is actually pretty decent.
The other cool thing was an ozone-generating hand dryer that operates with the mythical (by which I mean often overstated… another story) Japanese efficiency… very high powered air. Unfortunately, none of the companies producing these devices have a 110 Volt product yet, but if they did, it would be really cool as an alternative to the paper-towel heavy solution that health departments in the US seem to prefer. One of the companies producing them has one that’s been marketed mostly to medical institutions and outperforms alcohol-based hand sterilization using a combination of heat, high air pressure, and ozone. I got a non-specific invitation to go out for drinks with a representative from one of the companies making these before I leave Japan.
For dinner, I went out with Hiromi to Okonomiyaki at a family-restaurant style chain in a Shinjuku department store. The okonomiyaki was average, as would be expected; I’ve been there before, but we were at a loss for interesting okonomiyaki restaurants in Shinjuku, which is dominated by expensive corporate concepts and chains.
The main selling point of this okonomiyaki restaurant is the cheap drinks… a grapefruit and cassis drink went for 280 yen, and another drink made with lychee liqueur and a self-squeezed grapefruit half went for 380 yen. By way of contrast, afterward, I ordered a small pot of tea at a popular cake shop, Comme Ca, for 600 yen, with a couple of slices of impressive-looking cakes for 700-800 yen each. 90% of those attending the cake shop were women, and maybe more than 95% of the male customers are there with dates.
I haven’t decided what to do tomorrow… I’ve seen nearly everything possible except some seminars at FoodEx, and I’m not sure that the rest of the Hoteres show will be that valuable for my current business direction, though I’ve only walked through half of the exhibition area.
Today I was blown away by a Hong Kong confection that’s sort of like a grown up version of cotton candy with a nice crunch, nice flavor, and beautiful packaging. I think it was the most compelling item of the day… they have no agent in the U.S., and it’s definitely a top candidate… it has a compelling story (a 2000 year history, supposedly), it’s handmade, it’s usually not available outside of the area where it’s made, and it has great packaging.
I also tasted some truly amazing oolong tea, and my enthusiasm seemed to carry over to the booth organizer, who gave me 5 packages of tea that were being sold at the show for 2000 yen each (a little less than $20/100 grams). The aroma on the prepared tea sampe was very complex, almost fruity… completely unexpected. It’s a Taiwanese product, organically grown, and mostly sold in Japan.
I talked to one Japanese guy who spent some time in Portland and worked as a buyer for Costco in a previous life, and we discussed importing some Korean yuzu tea and jujube tea into the US. The quality of their yuzu and jujube teas is very good, and they have some other stuff like Aloe drinks and thin yuzu-flavored drinks I was less excited about. We’ll probably meet again before I leave. He’s very interested in expanding the market outside of Japan, as it’s apparently struggling here.
There was a mae-sil cha and red shiso cha concentrate from Korea that was pretty nice… nothing artificial about them and a nice pleasant flavor.
I looked at a lot of Korean and Thai products… the highlights for me were definitely this Hong Kong confection and that oolong tea. I even found some nice ceramics from a Taiwanese potter… It’s rare for me to find Chinese-style pottery that I have much enthusiasm for, but the tea ware he was selling was quite stunning coming out of a high-production studio.
When I got home, I noticed a message from a Japanese soy milk producer that I talked to yesterday; they produce a yogurt that tastes very normal… not very soy-like. They have some very milk-like soy milk also, which I was less enthusiastic about; I actually like soy milk to taste like soy beans, unlike most Americans, but I have until now never been a fan of soy-based yogurts. The texture is sort of typical for Japanese yogurt interpretations… very custardy, rather than the European smooth texture, but still nice. Anyway, it turns out that if I find some sort of export agent they may be able to work with me; they don’t do any direct exports and they don’t have a huge production capacity as yet.
I ate with my friend Hiromi tonight at an izakaya-type place and had some nice early-harvest grilled bamboo shoots, some soba-based gnocchi with butter and a little shiso, and some croquettes with embedded crunchy soba groats. Also we had dashi-iri tamago-yaki, which are sort of thick omelets with soup stock in them. Not so exciting were yakimiso (I love Takayama’s hoba-miso specialty… this wasn’t it), and some soba-gakki (sort of soba dumplings) with camembert inside, which were a little dry.
I think I’ll go to FoodEx in the morning and then go to the Hoteres show in the afternoon tomorrow. I’ve probably covered most of the floor at FoodEx by now, though I think I missed a few things in the center. Anyway, I have a few candidate products that I really feel impressed by that want representation in the US, so I think I have a place to start.
Today was the first day of FoodEx and I must
have visited several hundred booths and talked to people at several dozen. The
experience was truly dizzying. Some 2,300 companies are exhibiting, catering to
manufacturers, restaurant and food service, intermediate companies (which is
the category I fall into), and retailers (these booths occasionally have some
relevance to what I’m handling).
I wandered around for about 6.5 hours and
talked to a whole bunch of people. The highlights for me were some tea-related
products, some yuzu ponzu from Ibaragi prefecture that was surprisingly nice
for a packaged product, and various green/organic products which are still
slightly uncommon in Japan.
Tonight after the show I met a friend and we
tried to find vegetarian options at a Korean restaurant, which was interesting because
this is far less trouble in Korea than here. There were whole clams in the
kimchi tofu jjigae, which the waiter said had no meat in. I just worked around
them and my friend at them. There were also bits of meat in a chijimi that was
described as meatless.
When eating out I usually try not to concern
myself with most kinds of soup stock or other things that are too much trouble
to worry about, even in the U.S. where restaurants cater to every dietary whim,
but being vegetarian in Japan is always complicated.
Yesterday I was a little too tired to write.
I did some research in the morning and met with a couple of friends, but I didn’t
really do anything that impressive. I did cook a half-decent penne with a cream
sauce, garlic stems, and maitake mushrooms with some coarsely chopped pecorino
romano and pine nuts. It took far too long in my weekly apartment’s kitchen,
which has one burner, a warped frying pan that only cooks in one spot, and a
tiny saucepan that isn’t really big enough to boil any amount of pasta in. I
also made a frittata-like thing for dinner using nanohana (the greens from the
canola plant) and eringi mushrooms, served with some whole grain bread I found.
I got home too late to cook rice.
I realized that some people might see my
half-finished web site for Yuzu Trading Co. now that my business cards are in
the hands of strangers, so I fixed the layout and altered some text so that the
work looks less unfinished, hopefully. I wish I had spent more time on this,
but I have some ideas on how to actually make it useful later.
Somehow I’m awake much later than I should be. I should go to
sleep. I’ll have time to be more reflective later …