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When I was younger I never really imagined becoming a father. I was well-trained by my mother, who, having given birth to a nearly 11 pound me at age 19, encouraged her own children, on this one task, to be true procrastinators. But a few years ago, when Read More...
The first time I knowingly ate anything involving stinging nettles was a jarred salsa sold by a Tibetan immigrant family in Seattle. I haven’t seen their products for years, so I’m not really sure what happened to them, but I guess they haven’t single-handedly Read More...
This is why, given a choice, you should either learn to cook or find someone to spend your weekend mornings with who can cook. Crullers with cinnamon sugar Crullers have nearly disappeared from the shelves of most donut shops, mostly due to the fact that Read More...
Rare only for me, of course. As regular readers know, I’m as close to vegetarian as possible for someone who travels to Japan on a regular basis. Hiromi’s doctor said she’s got somewhat low iron levels. We’ve been mitigating that a bit with supplements Read More...
Last night we visited a friend who had planned a sort of traditional lamb dinner, to be followed by Easter egg decoration. I don’t really remember much about Easter dinners from my childhood, since we focused more on the egg thing, so I brought some gougeres Read More...
Hiromi always says that when I’m trying to use up ingredients, the results are often more exciting than when I do something more planned. I think that’s been the case since I was in college, when I would sometimes change course after I started cooking Read More...
These Peruvian beans, called fagioli del papa in Italian, have a robust flavor and a dramatic color. This was just a quick-and-dirty weeknight preparation, so I don’t even remember exactly how I seasoned it, but I know I used za’atar, onions, garlic, Read More...
Ganmodoki , a deep-fried tofu dumpling, are kind of a staple of Kyoto-style tofu cuisine, and find their way into nimono, among other things. I’ve made them before , but this time, I took a slightly different route. Inspired by a crazy cheap deal on burdock Read More...
The last couple of weekends we’ve been taking advantage of the fiddlehead fern fronds found at Sosio’s. Go get them before they disappear for the rest of the year! We’ve been preparing them using our usual nimono- style treatment… Blanch briefly in a Read More...
For years, I was impressed more by the idea of scones than the reality of scones. It’s mostly because I made the mistake of buying them at coffee shops, where they cost about $3 and generally taste stale and tough and excessively sweet. They typically Read More...
So I’ve had this dangerous affinity for meringues in the last year or so. I like them on cakes and pies, I like them on savory dishes, and I sometimes like them all by themselves. This occasionally results in something approaching culinary genius, but Read More...
I’ve had a few brushes with fleeting, mostly inconsequential fame. My very first letter to the editor was published when I was about 14 years old in Knoxville, Tennessee. Something that was ostensibly my own writing, heavily edited, was first “published” Read More...
No matter how hard we try, the two of us cannot eat a large pot of what amounts to be little more than mashed potatoes, regardless how many greens are involved. So I decided to repurpose the leftovers a little bit. I melted some butter in a 6” skillet Read More...
We self-indulgently bought a pasta roller last summer. It’s a single-purpose device, and I don’t have many items like that, at least not when they take up as much room as that, but pasta is a staple food for us and I wanted to have a tool that made it Read More...
As a vegetarian, I don’t eat the most common variations of okonomiyaki, which involve pork or other animal bits. I’m quite fine with the “modern yaki”, as one Tokyo restaurant called their wackier, contemporary spins on the dish; okonomiyaki is really Read More...
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